Smoothly handle your usual tasks. 3 handy tools for maintenance

Hand tools used for maintenance and repair. Drivers and wrenches are a given, but various other tools are used for different tasks. Among these tools are some "supporting actor" items that, while not used frequently, shine in specific tasks. We introduce tools that can eliminate those minor frustrations of "this is a bit difficult, but I guess it can't be helped..."

Hose Cutter for a Cut Surface You Can't Help But Admire

An example of a hose cutter. The upper blade and lower receiving part work together to create a perpendicular and smooth cut surface.

The blade surface of this hose cutter bends at a sharp angle midway, so the tip bites into the hose before the cut surface widens. This prevents the hose from being crushed.

When replacing fuel hoses or vacuum hoses, you might buy generic (bulk) hoses and adjust the length. Have you ever wished for a cleaner cut surface when doing this?

Common issues when cutting with nippers or a utility knife include:
● Slanted cut surface
● Crushed end

While these might not be considered major problems once the hose is fitted onto a nipple and secured with a hose clamp or clip, they can leave you feeling unsatisfied.

The reason for these results with nippers and cutters is that nippers crush the hose between their upper and lower blades, while a utility knife cuts by pressing a straight blade against the hose.

The specialized tool for this hose cutting task is the "hose cutter."

A hose cutter is a dedicated tool for cutting soft rubber hoses, such as fuel hoses, vacuum hoses, and washer hoses, cleanly, without crushing or tearing, and at a right angle.

While the detailed design may vary between products, they generally share a plier-like shape with a blade and receiving part at the tip.

Its main feature is the ability to create a perpendicular and smooth cut surface. Unlike nippers that pinch from two sides, the blade and receiving part work like a knife and cutting board, resulting in a smooth finish. The receiving part of a hose cutter also acts as a guide to keep the hose perpendicular to the blade, making it less likely for the cut surface to be slanted.

Some models have a pointed, V-shaped blade. When a straight cutter blade is pressed against a hose, it crushes the hose before making the initial cut. However, a pointed blade contacts the hose at a point rather than a line, allowing it to bite in with less force and begin cutting with minimal crushing, leading to a cleaner finish.

Additionally, cutting with a utility knife carries the risk of slipping or damaging surrounding parts. Hose cutters, on the other hand, are operated by gripping and have a guided blade, making them relatively safer to use.

Hose cutters are available from many tool manufacturers, and some can be purchased for just a few hundred yen. Instead of accumulating that "this still isn't quite right..." feeling every time you cut a hose with nippers or a knife, why not consider purchasing one?

Pinch-Off Pliers to Easily Stop Leaks When Removing Parts

An example of pinch-off pliers. This product is made of metal, but some similar pliers are made of resin.

On the Honda Super Cub from the carburetor era, the fuel cock is located on the carburetor side, not the fuel tank. Therefore, if you remove the fuel hose from the cock, there is no way to stop the gasoline in the tank, and it will flow out continuously. This is a very dangerous situation.

If you pinch the hose with pinch-off pliers before removing it from the fuel cock, it's safe even if the gasoline tank is full. This plier doesn't have a locking mechanism, but the hinge design allows it to maintain its grip on the hose.

When removing hoses from the fuel tank or carburetor during maintenance, you want to minimize the leakage of gasoline remaining in the hose.

When removing the hose connecting the fuel cock to the carburetor, if you turn the cock OFF (not necessary for vacuum-operated cocks), only the gasoline remaining in the hose will flow out. You can stop this by inserting a plug into the end of the removed hose. Alternatively, since the amount of gasoline remaining in the hose is not very large, you could soak it up with a rag.

However, this is not always the case depending on the model. A prime example is the Honda Super Cub. On Super Cubs from the carburetor era, the fuel cock is attached to the carburetor itself, and the fuel hose from the gasoline tank located under the seat is connected here.

If you remove the hose to detach the carburetor, all the gasoline from the fuel tank will flow out. Even if you try to plug the removed hose, you might be overwhelmed by the gushing gasoline, leading to a wet floor.

This is where "pinch-off pliers" come in handy. These gripping tools, also known as hose pinchers or hose clamp pliers, temporarily crush rubber hoses to stop the flow of internal liquids or gases.

In the case of the Super Cub, pinching the hose with pinch-off pliers before removing it from the fuel cock can minimize gasoline leakage.

While locking pliers (vise grips) can also be used to grip and hold hoses, pinch-off pliers have smooth gripping surfaces, which reduces the risk of leaving bite marks or scratches on the hose.

Some models also feature a friction hinge that allows them to be held in place at a desired position, rather than a mechanical lock like locking pliers. This type allows you to feel the degree of hose compression and prevent leaks by applying just the right amount of force without over-crushing.

However, it's generally not recommended to use pinch-off pliers on brake hoses. When removing the banjo bolt of a brake caliper with fluid in the reservoir, fluid will flow from the hose. Brake hoses are more robust than fuel hoses to withstand higher pressures, and squeezing them too hard with pliers could cause internal damage.

A Spark Plug Removal Tube That's Not Exactly a Tool, But Very Convenient

It looks like a simple rubber pipe, but this is a spark plug removal tube. The markings "12 & 14MM" on the left and "14 & 18MM" on the right indicate the spark plug thread sizes. The diameter of the insulator part also changes depending on the thread size, so you use both ends.

Insert the insulator part of the spark plug into the tube and carry it to the spark plug hole. Since it doesn't engage with the hex part, if the thread resistance increases, it will slip and won't turn. This protects the threads.

While an extension bar and spark plug socket combination transmits tightening force directly, the rubber tube does not transmit force, which is an advantage.

Finally, we introduce a very convenient item, though perhaps too simple to be called a tool.

When removing and installing spark plugs, which play a crucial role in engine condition, the plug holes in water-cooled engines can be deep, making it difficult to reach the plug with your fingers.

A magnetic spark plug socket can lift out a plug removed from the cylinder head, but if the socket lacks a holder function, the plug may remain at the bottom of the spark plug hole. A "spark plug removal tube" is useful in such situations.

Despite its grand name, it's essentially a rubber tube. By inserting the tube into the insulator part of the spark plug, you can hold it and pull it out of the spark plug hole. Even a fuel hose or water hose can be used as a substitute. Nevertheless, it plays such an important role that it was once sold by spark plug manufacturers. Its importance is highlighted not so much when removing the plug, but when installing it.

The basic rule when installing bolts or screws is to turn the first few threads by hand. This is because your fingers provide low torque, so if there's any foreign matter in the threads, it will immediately stop turning, alerting you to the problem. Spark plugs are similar; it's ideal to thread them in by hand until they properly engage with the threaded hole in the cylinder head.

If your fingers can't reach, and you use a spark plug socket with an extension bar and turn it with a ratchet handle, excessive torque could be applied even if the plug is tilted relative to the threaded hole, potentially damaging the cylinder head.

Even if you turn the extension bar directly with your fingertips without a ratchet handle, some torque will be transmitted, and the screw might tighten to some extent even if it's a bit stiff.

In contrast, a rubber spark plug removal tube has low strength and rigidity, so if there's even a small amount of debris on the threads, the tube will twist, and the plug won't turn. Even if the spark plug hole in the cylinder head is deep, if you feel a "wobbly" sensation when turning the tube, you can assume there's an issue with the threads.

Even with its low strength and rigidity, if the threads are clean, the plug will screw in smoothly. Once the spark plug's gasket contacts the cylinder head and the tube stops turning, you can switch to a spark plug socket and tighten it with a ratchet handle without damaging the threads.

With decades of experience removing and installing spark plugs, complacency can set in, leading to the thought, "If I'm careful, I can just use a socket wrench from the start." However, ignoring even a slight increase in tightening torque with the idea that "it should loosen up with a little more tightening" can lead to major problems.

You might find it tedious to thread the spark plug with the removal tube and then switch to a spark plug socket. However, considering the potential impact of a problem, it's wiser to take the safe route and "make haste slowly."