Not only checking the condition of the crankshaft, connecting rods, and other parts of the engine, but also other parts of the engine can be maintained if the engine is unloaded. So-called "on-the-spot" maintenance can be practiced to prevent problems. If the clutch cover is removed, the clutch unit and kick shaft area can be easily checked and inspected. Let's observe each part while imagining the mechanism.

Checking the piston pin and small end for "rattling" is a must.

The small end of the connecting rod of a two-stroke engine incorporates a needle bearing (some models designed in the 1950s had a gunmetal bushing press-fitted to prevent seizure). Since the upper waist of the engine is disassembled and the connecting rod can be visually checked, the condition of the connecting rod can also be checked under the waist in ASSY condition. for 2-stroke engines, set the needle roller bearing at the small end and try to insert the piston pin in that condition. When you hold the connecting rod in place with one hand and try to move the piston pin, rattling is a big problem. The first priority is to identify the cause of the rattle, whether it is the bearing, connecting rod, or piston pin.

On the big end side, you can use a Thickness Gauge.

Check for rattling by shaking the small end of the connecting rod that is poking its head out of the crankcase in the direction of rotation, up and down, and to the left and right relative to the crankshaft. If the rattling exceeds the set clearance, it can be diagnosed as abnormal. When the engine is started, an abnormal noise should be heard.

A relatively common problem with 2-stroke engines is rattle due to side metal wear at the big end (big end). Check the side clearance with a sickness gauge. If the clearance is large, the crankshaft needs to be overhauled.

Also check the condition of the driveshaft oil seal.

When the drive sprocket is removed, the oil seal and collar can be seen behind it (many small-displacement cars have an oil seal that touches the transmission shaft directly). Pick up the collar from the transmission shaft and pull it out to visually check the condition of the oil seal and collar. Be especially careful if there is oil seepage when disassembling.

Inspect the area around the transmission shaft before disassembling it, keeping it "field maintained" without washing it down with parts cleaner. The collar should be cleaned after removal and the oil seal lip hit points should be visually checked. If the lip rubbing area is worn, it may cause oil seepage. If there is wear that can be felt at the fingertips, the collar can be replaced or reversed assembled as a first aid measure.

Many shift drums have "cracked plastic covers" due to age-related deterioration.

The RZ-R engine has a plastic cover to prevent electricity from passing through, although the neutral switch contacts are located on the shift drum. 3 countersunk screw fixing points had shrunk due to deterioration, and all were cracked. After disassembling and cleaning, we would like to repair them with plastic repair.

As deterioration progresses, the tightening seat may crack and fall off. An O-ring is set on the mating part of the plastic cover to prevent oil leakage. If there is oil seepage, replace the O-ring with a new one and clean the sealing seat.

There are numerous points that can be checked, so be proactive!

By opening the clutch cover, the friction disc can be inspected for wear and tear, and the clutch plates can be inspected for burns and distortion. In addition, while disassembling the clutch cover, we should also check the condition of the kick shaft and kick spring. Engines that have had poor starting performance in the past may have stretched kick springs that have become worn out.

Check the condition of the stud bolts and locating pins attached to the cylinder base surface on the crankcase side and replace the parts if they are rusted. When removing the bolts, use a clean rag to protect the crankcase chamber from rust and debris. If you are concerned about rust on the bolts, you can brush on rust-converting rust-preventive paint.

POINT

  • Point 1・If the engine is off, it is easy to inspect various parts, so practice "Tsudoi maintenance" actively.
  • Point 2・If oil leakage or oil seepage occurs, identify the affected area and replace the oil seal.
  • Point 3・Parts that join each other should be thoroughly cleaned before assembly. Clean the joints thoroughly before assembly. Forgetting to clean may cause problems later
  • .

When the engine is mounted on the car body, it is sometimes difficult to proceed with the work even if you want to. However, if the engine is dismounted and in a stand-alone state, a variety of maintenance can be performed in more ways than one might imagine. If the engine is in stand-alone timing, preventive maintenance can also be practiced. Problems that may occur later can be avoided in advance. Instead of placing the engine directly on the ground, it can be placed on an easy-to-maintain wooden engine stand, or, when using waste materials, on a 12-inch old tire, which can be used as a workbench.

When the clutch cover is removed from the engine while it is mounted on the vehicle body and maintenance is performed on the internal parts, it would be common to proceed with the work on the side stand. However, if the engine is down, the engine can be turned around on the workbench and the clutch cover can be disassembled with the engine directly above it. It also means that the parts are less likely to shift during the work, which allows for reliable disassembly and assembly.

If the drive sprocket is a center-locking type, the clutch center (clutch hub) holder pawl of the special tool can be hung on the teeth of the sprocket to loosen the center nut while securing the sprocket. Since the clutch unit can be pointed straight up, disassembly of the main parts of the clutch system becomes easier. The timing when the engine is dismounted is also an easy time to work, so be proactive and practice "on-the-spot" maintenance.



To the gallery (9)

Thích bài viết này