Challenge to "replace torn Z2 seat upholstery" with commercially available seat upholstery [Part 2].

Bond G17 is applied to the sponge bonding area of the steel plate bottom and stretched. This adhesive is applied thinly to both sides of the adhesive, and after the surfaces have dried, they are butted together to increase the adhesive strength.

Looking at the adhesion points on the factory sponges, there were adhesion marks only on a portion of each front and rear. This time, we decided to increase the adhesion area to make the sponge mount stronger.

The sheet sponges, which had absorbed moisture, were dried in the shade on a sunny day for three hours. Drying in direct sunlight is not good because it damages the sponge. A thin layer of G17 was also spread on the sponge surface.

The adhesive was dried with an industrial heater, but heating it all at once would cause bubbles to blow from the adhesive and reduce its adhesive ability. Be careful when using this method. It is best to use a hair dryer.

Place the sponge sheet upside down vertically and glue the sponge and bottom together by placing the bottom upside down while holding the center of the sheet bottom. Make a line in the center of both sides.

After setting the sponge, check for any misalignment. Push the sponge from the center outward in both front-to-back and side-to-side directions to promote adhesion between the bottom of the steel plate and the sponge.

The side portion, which was pressed against by the rider's inner thigh while riding, was not covered by the steel plate edge because the sponge had collapsed. A thin sponge was used to repair the bumps to cover the exposed steel plate.

There was a hollow area inside the front-most part of the sponge, and it looked as if this area would collapse and the sponge would lose its shape. We decided to cut a piece of sponge to match the dimensions of the cavity and fill it in.

The cut sponge was cut from a sponge board (20 mm thick) that was sold at a major home improvement store. The dense and elastic sponge board is easy to use when repairing sheets.

If the sponge is completely collapsed, it is quicker to cut out the uneven part with scissors and reshape it with a new sponge. In this case, the sponge was not collapsed, so a thin sponge was used to repair it.

It may be best for Sanmeka to buy the smallest tube of Bond G17 and "use it up" each time. It is tempting to get the large tubes that are less expensive, but they often deteriorate because they are not used up.

Rather than suddenly tensioning the seat and securing it with hooks, the first step is to center the seat body and the upholstery by hooking the parts that will become the front and back of the seat. At the same time, check the length dimension of the upholstery.

After finishing the front temporary fixing, temporarily fix the rear center section and proceed to the left and right R sections for temporary fixing. The hooks on the left and right sides of the seat and in the front and rear directions should not be fixed until the very end when the dimensions have been checked.

Check the center from the front of the seat toward the rear. If you notice any misalignment of the center at this stage, it is recommended to re-center the seat. Until the center is determined, everything is fixed temporarily.

Once the position of the seat front and back is determined, the hooks are hooked into the gussets at the double-layered edges by pulling in the side skins. Once the hooks are secured, push them in firmly with a tool.

The area in front of the seat that rides up to the tank was scuffed, so the seat upholstery was pulled in. However, the hooks did not come to the folded seams, so I stuffed thinly cut sponges into the area to adjust it.

The dimensional accuracy of the seat upholstery was good, so the upholstery was relatively smooth. The seat belts (sold separately) were installed to Z2 specifications. After riding for a while, I think that the matching of the sponge and upholstery will become more natural. If you feel the work is troublesome and difficult, do not hesitate to ask a professional store to do it.

Seat bottom for hard-to-find moped models. When the sponge anchor was removed and the steel plate seat bottom was left alone, the "shark teeth" that were supposed to be on the outer flange of the bottom were all gone due to corrosion.

The sponge side of the bottom steel plate was treated to prevent rust (using black rust conversion material), and then FRP resin and fiberglass were stretched over it while masking it with aluminum tape. The bottom is a hybrid bottom.

Once the stretched FRP is completely dry, cut the flange part with an air saw to get an idea of the original seat bottom shape. As it is, there are no shark teeth on the outer flange.

The blind riveter is driven in from the bottom side of the sheet. The rivet's core bar is used as a hook to hold the shark's teeth in place. Use a sponge to protect the protrusion of the outer caulking part.

Cut the core rod of the riveter, leaving about 15-20 mm of the core rod, to complete the hooks for the sheet surface skin that will replace the shark teeth. When cutting the core rod with nippers, cut at an angle to make the tip sharp.