I scratched the screen of my precious car!! Have you ever experienced getting scuff marks all over without realizing it? There are polish chemicals developed for polishing screens, but for deep scratches that cannot be fixed with just those chemicals, try polishing with a "polisher" after wet sanding.


Scratches on clear screens are noticeable.

When polishing a racing screen, which is thinner than you might imagine, start by securing the screen body firmly. Place a non-slip sheet on the workbench and set the screen and cowl so that the screen is sandwiched by the cowl. Fine scratches and deep scratches have caused the clear feeling to disappear...


With minimal polishing, first check the depth of the scratches.

Attach the green Bufflex (green, which can equalize scratches from 2000 grit sandpaper) to the dedicated sponge block. Start working by wetting the entire screen with a spray bottle. The workability is good just by firmly fixing the cowl. Instability leads to poor workability.

While polishing the entire screen, carefully polish the areas that catch your fingernail or have obvious scratches. However, since there were scratches too deep to be removed by Bufflex green, I judged that continuing the work as is would be a waste of time. So...


Depending on the depth of the scratch. Gradually remove scratches by changing the grit of the wet sandpaper.

Obviously deep scratches cannot be completely removed with fine-grit wet sandpaper. Here, I prepared 1200 grit wet sandpaper and tried polishing only the deep scratch areas. It was tough because there were deep scratches in multiple places, not just one.


Wet the area around the scratch with a spray bottle and intensively polish the affected area with 1200 grit wet sandpaper. Be careful with deep scratches like cracks, as overdoing it might damage the screen, so it's important to compromise to some extent.


After polishing the few deep scratches with 1200 grit wet sandpaper to make them less noticeable, I decided to polish the entire surface using an air polisher. Since this is not the final polishing, I proceeded with work at a grit of around 2000. This grit level is suitable for intermediate polishing.


The polishing paper holder of the small air polisher is made of urethane rubber to absorb impact. If you polish with a rigid holder, there is a risk of damaging the screen, such as cracking it, when it catches or wraps around, so extreme caution is necessary.


Unlike polishing by hand with fine-grit Bufflex or wet sandpaper, I carefully polished while constantly using a spray bottle to remove the acrylic shavings that flowed out during polishing, taking care not to leave fine scratches on the screen.


Unlike polishing by hand with fine-grit Bufflex or wet sandpaper, I carefully polished while constantly using a spray bottle to remove the acrylic shavings that flowed out during polishing, taking care not to leave fine scratches on the screen.


Once the scratches are gone, it's time for "compound and polisher".

I used a small air polisher. This might be the optimal size polisher for polishing motorcycle parts using an air compressor. I used a washed wool buff. Wash the ones you used before.


I used three types of compounds with different grits. Shake well before use to mix the compounds inside thoroughly before proceeding with the work. This is an essential step to avoid unevenness during polishing.

The first one I used was the extra-fine grit, also known as Rapid Ultra. Despite the name "extra-fine grit," it was the coarsest compound among the three products. I proceeded with the finishing polish in the order of extra-fine grit -> ultra-fine particles -> final gloss.


Be careful not to press too hard, as the wool buff can get hot and deform the acrylic screen. When using a power polisher, the key to success is to start gently, regardless of the size. Don't overdo it.


All scratches, from minor to deep, disappear, restoring a clear screen.

After finishing the outside of the screen, scratches on the inside started to become noticeable. Proceed with the work while one person holds the cowl body on the workbench. A stable working environment seems to be important for this type of work. Here, the electric polisher for finishing comes into play.


When polishing with finishing compound, it's best to place your hand on the back of the screen to check if it's getting too hot. Pressing too hard will generate heat, which is not good. It shines brilliantly, a world of difference from before the work.



POINT
  • Point 1: Polishing parts in an unstable state can actually damage them, so try to stabilize the parts.
  • Point 2: Use wet sandpaper of different grits to gradually finish the scratches until they are less noticeable.
  • Point 3: Hand polishing cannot achieve a highly clear finish, so use a polisher. Be careful not to press too hard.

Polishers were developed for polishing car bodies, but they can also be used for polishing motorcycle parts. Polishers come in electric and air types, and are often available in two sizes with pads around Φ180mm and Φ80mm. For polishing large parts or wide areas, a polisher with a large diameter pad is easier to use and allows for stable polishing work. However, for small exterior parts such as turn signals, taillights, and side covers, a small polisher with a Φ80mm pad is easier to use. If you are interested in polishers and considering investing in equipment, owning both large and small sizes seems to be more versatile for various parts and more efficient.


Here, we practiced "scratch removal polishing work" on an acrylic screen for Sunday racers. Screens for cowls are generally made of acrylic resin. Some screens for commercially available vehicles are made of polycarbonate resin, but polycarbonates have higher heat resistance and hardness than acrylics, so hand polishing is often ineffective. You may even feel a lack of power when using a polisher.

On the other hand, acrylic screens are softer than you might imagine and are easier to work with. However, some acrylic products have a "surface coating," so such products cannot be polished partially, and the work reported here cannot be done. Important points for actual work are that for small scratch marks, you can achieve a beautiful finish with "hand polishing" using dedicated screen polishing chemicals. However, if there are deep scratches or if you discover deep scratches during the work, you must start by removing the deep scratches and then proceed with the work step by step. Be careful, as you will regret it later if you proceed with the work knowing there are deep scratches.



To the gallery (15)

Like this article