BMW cũ ít phổ biến! Lo lắng về cảm giác tay phanh trước [Độ bóng và sơn có thể làm được bao xa] ☆Vol.17

I'm enjoying fresh days on a big bike that I haven't been able to run in a while. The BMW K Nanago is an unpopular model that is easy to start because it is a cell starter starting model, so there is no kick-starting ritual. Every time I test-drove the bike, I was dissatisfied with the touch feeling of the brake lever. Is this a BMW? No, it's not? It was a struggle with ...... that it couldn't be. When I searched for parts to replace the inner kit (cup seal) of the master cylinder, I found .......

　Replaced it with a cheap new front brake master that I found on an internet auction.

I searched for parts on internet auctions to replace the brake master inner kit. Then I found a new master assembly for the K100/K75 series at a reasonable price.

Since it is an unpopular model, there was no rival competition and I was able to win the bid immediately. The parts we received were exactly the same in appearance as the current model, so we were relieved. The inner piston diameter is Φ13mm.

The brake hoses are using my favorite Swageline. Only the short hose under the steering wheel cover was made by myself with SUS fittings and stainless steel mesh hose. I cut it off here and replaced the parts.

Although it is hard to evaluate because of cultural differences, the BMW brake master is a type where the reserve tank, which is an integral part of the master body, is removed. This structure is completely different from that of Japanese cars.

　BMW brakes with a unique installation method that is very different from the structure of Japanese brake masters.

Even after the brake master body and reserve tank are removed, the brake lever and lever holder remain on the body. The throttle area was disassembled by chance, but disassembly was not necessary.

The fluid in the brake hose is intact all the way to the banjo section that tightens to the master body, so it is almost dry and easy to work with when restoring. All sliding parts of the lever were greased up well.

　Clutch release with rubber bellows as oil seal

Checking the construction of the clutch release, it turns out that the oil seal on the release piston is a bellows boot that covers the entire release piston. This is another cultural difference. Oil leakage occurred due to boot damage.

When I checked the oil leak situation, I found that the boot was broken, so I arranged for parts. Until then, I had tentatively repaired the boot with superglue, but it was leaking in heaps.

The difference between a new bellows boot and a broken bellows boot that needs to be replaced is obvious. Thank goodness I was able to quickly purchase new parts from an internet parts dealer! It's different now than it was in the past.

　The front wheel was replaced with a used part purchased at a discount price, but trouble occurred: ......

The bearing holder in the front wheel hub section was damaged and rattling. We removed the old tires from the original K75S wheels and asked Kerbeck to paint the wheels again.

We removed the old tires with a DRC road bike tire changer, clarified the masking points, and then asked Kerbeck to powder coat them.

As soon as the powder coating was finished, the wheel replacement was put into practice. When changing tires on cast wheels, change tubeless valves every second time.

With the exterior parts being BMW's "M" line, I chose the wheel color because I thought the gold would look better than the normal silver. Even unpopular cars are the center of attention!

On a fine day, I ride around the neighborhood to check and inspect the feeling of the bike. The shape of the bike was almost restored with various work practices. We were also able to gain a fair amount of know-how on the "LE Jetronic fuel injection" made by Bosch in Germany. Although I can't drive it boldly yet, I would like to do some light touring in the south-northeast area with my fellow BMW and motorcycle friends who are pensioners. I have a fantasy of touring in the southern Tohoku area with my fellow pensioners' BMW and motorcycle friends.

The work progressed mainly on the exterior finish, but as expected, the K-Nanago has been registered for more than 35 years (the first year registration on the vehicle certificate is 1987). The inspection record shows that the first owner took good care of the car. Since it was a so-called dealer car and a foreign car, the ownership history of this car is probably different from that of a domestic car. Even so, there are some parts that may not have been replaced since the car was registered as a new car. Even so, there are parts in various places that have probably not been replaced since it was registered as a new car. It is natural that there is a difference in the condition of each part of the car between a car that has been running over 100,000 km and a car that has been running shallowly and stored in a garage, even if they are 35 years old. It all depends on the way of driving and the owner's way of thinking. ......

My K-Nanago has 35,000 km on the odometer, and if you know BMWs well, you might think it is still in the process of being repaired. If you know BMW well, you may think it is still in the middle of its life. I have heard that BMW also has such a feeling, but I wonder how long it takes for the K series to start running lightly. I wonder how long it takes for the engine to start turning lightly?

The first thing that felt strange to me when I started driving was the touch of the brake lever. The brake lever was strangely short for stopping a heavy chassis, which is typical of B.M.'s of this age. When we checked, we found that the diameter of the front brake master cylinder was Φ13mm. This is a surprisingly small diameter compared to the Ducati's, but since the lever ratio seems to be different, I don't think we can make a general comparison based on the piston diameter. Still, it looked spongy, so I was looking at the computer screen to replace the inner kit. Casually searching online auctions, I found an unused front master cylinder for K100/K75. Since it was easier than replacing the inner kit and the price was low, I made a successful bid without hesitation. After replacing the parts that arrived and the current parts, I got a completely different feeling of click. It looks beautiful and I am very satisfied!

Front wheel hub also has a problem!　It was a little hard not being able to push the bike around during the disassembly process of finishing the used car, so we bought cheap used wheels (with tires already installed) for both the front and rear wheels and repainted them. One day, however, I heard a rattling sound coming from the front wheels when I was pushing the bike around. At first, I thought it might be the brake pads. I thought it might be brake pads, so I disassembled and inspected it. ...... The cause of the rattling sound was that the hub bearing on one side was not press-fitted properly, causing it to rattle. When I installed the new bearing, I thought that the press fit was too tight, so I applied a chemical (Threadlocker) to the outer circumference of the bearing, but it was still no good. I could have solved the problem with a moped, but it was a heavy BMW. I had no choice but to remove the tire and bearing from the front wheel of the vehicle I purchased and repainted it anew.

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