FRP repair and homemade parts crafting is the basic principle of not cutting corners, even in simple tasks.

Prepare parts cleaner or acetone with strong degreasing power, soak a rag with it, and thoroughly degrease and clean the affected area of the adhesive repair and the surrounding area. Spraying parts cleaner directly on the area is wasteful.

After soaking a rag with parts cleaner, wipe the area around the repair adhesive affected area thoroughly and degrease it. The adhesive strength of the repair will be surprisingly different depending on whether or not you do this step. Let's proceed without cutting corners.

Since the butt joints were shaved during the repair setup, the parts are preset considering the amount of shaving. In this case, clear PP tape, which has lower adhesive strength than cloth gummed tape and does not soak into the resin, is said to be better.

Since the butt joints were shaved in the repair setup, the parts are preset considering the amount of shaving. In this case, clear PP tape, which has lower adhesive strength than cloth gummed tape and does not soak through the resin, is said to be better.

Instead of using scissors to cut out the glass fibers each time while applying the tape, it is more efficient to prepare all the glass fibers to be applied before mixing the poly resin and hardener.

In this case, a "3-ply modification" was used, in which two mat fibers are stretched and one cross fiber is stretched for the finish. The material was pre-cut to a size slightly wider than the width of the part.

The cross fibers to be upholstered in the finish are woven in regular lengthwise and crosswise patterns. It is advisable to cut the mat slightly larger to hide the fibers. The material up to this point was cut out in advance of the work.

After mixing in a ratio of 100 polyester resin to 1 hardener, stir the mixture thoroughly with a brush. One coat of the stirred resin was applied to the affected area to prevent the first matting fibers from slipping.

The matte fibers are stretched with as little resin as possible. The first coat of resin is applied by pressing the mat with a brush so that it soaks in, and when there is not enough resin soaked in, a second coat of resin is applied to soak it in.

The process proceeded smoothly and without pause until the cloth fibers were staked. Even with only poly resin soaked into the mat fibers, it was possible to stake the cross fiber. Too much resin would make the part too heavy and cause poor curing.

Before the start of curing, the waste rag can be used to absorb and remove any excess resin that has been applied. After the resin has cured to the point that the part can stand on its own in about 20 to 30 minutes.

After completing the work, pour a small amount of acetone into a paper cup and thoroughly clean the brush. After curing, polyester resin cannot be cleaned with acetone. The rule of thumb is to work quickly and efficiently.

Before fully curing, the clear PP tape that had been temporarily fixed was removed. The tape was removed before it was fully cured.

After the product is fully cured, the scissors blade will not be able to stand up at all. If the product is still in the process of hardening, the excess can be cut off just like cutting squid with scissors. The cut is sharp and clean.

After cutting the excess, leave it for 24 hours to fully cure. Once fully cured, burrs from the cut areas are removed with scissors and chamfered with sandpaper. The gel surface should be degreased with acetone.

Prepare talc, a fine silicate powder of magnesium called lime stone, and transfer an appropriate amount into a paper cup. By mixing this talc with polyester resin, a highly viscous filling resin can be made.

Weigh the poly resin and talc mixed with the hardener on a scale to make them equal in weight, and stir while mixing in a 1:1 ratio. The resin should not be poured in all at once, but rather mixed gradually to ensure evenness.

Using disposable chopsticks, mix (knead) the talc-containing resin together thoroughly. The mixture should be smooth and even. The talc resin is used as a filler, and the butt groove is filled with putty to reconstruct the shape.

Use a plastic spatula to fill the grooves in the butt joints with talc resin. The gel-coated surface must be degreased and cleaned before this operation. Air bitten into the gel surface can be repaired with this talc resin.

Press a sufficient amount of talc resin into the butt groove as needed. If too much is applied, it will be troublesome to adjust the cutting, and if too little is applied, it will be necessary to re-apply talc resin to reproduce the shape.

After about one hour from the start of curing, the next work process can proceed. The area heaped with talc resin is scraped by setting a sandpaper of about No. 240 on a smooth plate. The work is done quickly and easily.

After a certain amount of sanding has been done, the piece is finished with sandpaper of around 400, being careful not to sand too deeply. In the finishing stage just before painting, the surface is further sanded with a fine sandpaper for a water-resistant finish.