Even if it looks in good condition, maintenance for a 'hibernating vehicle' is essential!!

The motorcycle brought into the garage looks to be in excellent condition. However, before you start riding, maintenance of the suspension—specifically lubrication and greasing—is essential. If you just start riding because it looks like it's in good shape, there is a possibility that the sliding parts throughout the chassis will wear out prematurely. Lack of oil or grease often causes significant damage to metal-on-metal sliding surfaces.

Even if it looks good, if it has been sitting for a long time, thorough greasing is a must

I disassembled the brake rod and torque rod, removed the rear wheel, and then pulled the rear shock unit out of the chassis. Motorcycles with high mileage often have poor rear-end conditions and are frequently rusted, but this particular unit was clean and shiny with no dirt.

Once the rear shock is removed, move the swingarm up and down to check if it moves smoothly. Just because it looks good doesn't mean it operates well. As expected, it was squeaking due to a lack of grease. Time to disassemble and grease it.

I removed the swingarm pivot shaft and checked the structure of the pivot. Even though it's a moped, it has a luxurious specification with bushings and pivot collars. You can feel the manufacturer's commitment. It would be a shame if it were just a mass-production-oriented "press-fit rubber damper" design.

I washed and cleaned the collar and the swingarm pivot hole. There was almost no grease left; it was completely dry. After cleaning, I inserted the collar and checked for any play in the bushing before applying grease. It's hard to check for play when there is a film of grease.

The swingarm pivot shaft was also very clean—completely dry. If the shaft rusts, removing and installing the swingarm becomes a hassle, so I applied grease and reinstalled the shaft. Still, why was the shaft so dry...? I'm lucky there were no signs of wear.

Tightening torque is important, but over-tightening reduces operability

I reinstalled the swingarm and tightened the pivot bolt while checking its operability. I discovered that if the tightening torque is too high, the area around the pivot gets compressed, worsening the movement. Careless tightening is not good. Tighten it while checking for thrust play and smooth operation.

The manufacturer's original setup uses a spring washer and nut, but here I decided to switch to a flanged self-locking nut, aiming for a situation that is easier to manage with torque and (presumably) less likely to loosen. By the way, if you tighten it too much, the operability will deteriorate significantly.

Maintenance of the characteristic rocker operation part of the Uni-Trak mechanism

There is a link unit on the frame side (upper side of the rear shock), and the operability of that link pivot is also important. I removed the shaft and checked the condition of the parts around the link. The rocker arm link shaft was designed to be partially exposed.

Let's check the condition of each part set in the rocker arm. It was good that there was no wear. If there is play, replace the bushings. Some bushings use resin. Using high-performance grease will extend the maintenance interval.

The rocker arm pivot shaft is particularly important, but due to the structure, the rocker arm moves left and right, and the pivot shaft surface in the gap was exposed. Since there is a possibility that rust could form on the shaft due to water splashing from the rear tire, I reinstalled it with an O-ring sandwiched in the gap.

Try a dry fit before applying grease to check for play first

Resin bushings are used for the swingarm and rocker pivot. If wear occurs in these parts, play will develop in the vertical movement of the swingarm, so be sure to check thoroughly. Specifically, set the parts before greasing and check for play between the individual components.

A fellow biker was captivated by the high mobility of the "moped class 2 model" and purchased a Kawasaki AR80 that had been dormant for a long time. It seems they found it through a private sale, but the vehicle they picked up was in even better condition than it looked in the photos. However, if you get excited and start riding it immediately, it's a common occurrence with long-term dormant vehicles that you'll get bitten back later. Here, I decided to prioritize inspection and maintenance of the suspension sliding parts, which is a ritual for riding comfortably.

You can tell from the appearance, but this AR80 had a very "dry" impression. Perhaps they thoroughly removed all dirt before putting it into long-term storage. When I disassembled the rear end, as expected, it was in a state that could be called "out of grease." The mileage is low, there is no mud splatter, and the condition is undoubtedly excellent. It was likely stored with great care.

However, decades have passed since it left the factory, and assuming from the 4,000 km mileage, there is no doubt it has been almost completely unmaintained. It is now registered and in a condition where it can be ridden comfortably, but one reason why it stopped being ridden despite the low mileage has become clear. The cause seems to be a "cracked oil tank." When I poured 2-stroke oil into the empty oil tank, colored, clean engine oil leaked onto the floor. The tank damage is likely why it stopped being ridden.

In any case, just because a classic car looks to be in excellent condition doesn't mean it can be ridden or driven as is. If they had ridden it around without greasing it, the suspension operability would have eventually deteriorated. Before enjoying the ride, I intend to perform maintenance on key points first to finish it in truly "excellent condition."

MOTO-GP DNA: SUZUKI GSX-R1000R Custom

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