Achieve surprising "instant bonding speed" and strength by skillfully using a curing accelerator

I suspect there are surprisingly many Sunday mechanics who have felt that "the name 'instant adhesive' is just a name," and that "perhaps it's a characteristic of instant adhesives that they don't actually harden very quickly...!?" Did you know that there are auxiliary chemicals to use such instant adhesives literally "instantly" and "efficiently"? Here, let's practice emergency repair of a broken tail lens using an instant adhesive.

There are different types of instant adhesives. Use them according to your purpose.

Among plastic resin parts, instant adhesives demonstrate excellent effects in bonding strength to "acrylic materials." In the case of "cracks" that have entered parts due to impact, it seems effective to use a "low-viscosity type" and let it flow in to bond.

It is common for cracks to occur due to excessive torque of tightening bolts or external impact, but if there are no missing parts, it is best to use a low-viscosity instant adhesive and repair it by letting the adhesive flow into the crack via "capillary action."

Curing and solidification accelerator chemicals that enhance the instant effect of instant adhesives

Start by carefully opening the broken part and degreasing and cleaning the cross-section dirt of the cracked part with a cotton swab and parts cleaner. Press the cracked part and let the low-viscosity instant adhesive flow in with a fine-tipped nozzle. Once it has flowed in via capillary action, lightly spray the curing accelerator.

By spraying it lightly toward the affected area through a tissue, you can avoid spraying too much solidification accelerator, and the instant adhesive will harden stably. When spraying directly, it is best to perform a test spray to check the spray amount before spraying.

The instant adhesive that flowed into the crack via capillary action hardened, and I was able to repair and integrate the cracked part. It is said that if it is a part where no special force is applied, the bonding strength will increase considerably through this work.

Low-viscosity specifications that are easy to soak in and specifications that emphasize "impact resistance"

For the repair of "dropped parts," it is best to use an instant adhesive liquid that considers "impact resistance." Since parts that have completely fallen off are highly likely to be contaminated with oil (especially 2-stroke engine models), start with cleaning first.

It is surprisingly common for the mounting parts of tail lenses and turn signal lenses to fall off. There are many such examples of destruction due to external force or impact when tightening bolts too much or when the lens cushion gasket no longer functions as a buffer material.

The basis of everything is thorough cleaning of the "bonding surfaces"

Start by soaking the tip of a cotton swab with a degreasing spray (parts cleaner) and thoroughly degreasing and cleaning the missing or dropped affected area. It seems that if dirt gets mixed in, the bonding strength will drop overwhelmingly. The basis of everything is cleaning.

After thoroughly spraying the tip of a cotton swab with parts cleaner and degreasing and cleaning the missing or dropped affected area, it seems that dirt had indeed spread, and the tip of the cotton swab was pitch black. Looking at this dirt, you can see the cleaning effect.

Apply an appropriate amount of instant adhesive with good impact resistance to the joint part of the degreased and cleaned fragment. Too much is no good, and too little is no good, so it is ideal to apply an appropriate amount to the entire bonding surface. I'm glad this missing fragment remained with the bolt.

Hold the missing fragment with tweezers and set the fragment on the lens body based on the broken shape and restoration angle. If you have lost the missing parts, it is possible to make them yourself with acrylic pipes, etc., but the hurdle is high.

After confirming the initial hardening while holding it with tweezers, lightly spray the curing and solidification accelerator. If the shape of the missing part matches perfectly, it should be able to be bonded with a finish so good that it cannot be distinguished by the naked eye.

Combine low-viscosity instant adhesive and a fine-tipped nozzle to penetrate the affected area

Once the missing part is stable, set a fine-tipped nozzle on the tip of the low-viscosity instant adhesive and pour the adhesive into the outer circumference of the bonded part. The low-viscosity instant adhesive will soak in due to capillary action. You can aim for increased strength by using different instant adhesives properly.

If you stare at the affected area after bonding, you can see the crack faintly, but after installing the lens, I usually didn't notice the crack by eye. Through this work, the genuine lens can be reused, but it is necessary to have spare parts ready.

When I asked Yoshinori Itabashi, the head of Model Create Maxi, who introduced the repair technique here, he said, "Aren't there surprisingly many users who over-rely on the instant effect of instant adhesives?" When asked in detail, Maxi-san said that there seem to be many situations where people rush the work and are not able to fully demonstrate the bonding performance. It seems that there are cases where the bonding strength is significantly reduced as a result of realizing that they have damaged the parts and rushing into repair work.

It is said that the "absolute basic" for effective and correct bonding is "removing dirt and degreasing the cracked affected area." No matter what kind of adhesive you use, removing dirt and degreasing is the absolute basic. However, when the affected area is small, fine, or deep, the impression that "it looks difficult to repair..." occupies the mind before degreasing, and there are many examples of starting work while forgetting the important degreasing work before starting the restoration work. Although it is invisible to the eye, the cracked or chipped affected area is said to be dirtier than imagined. During this repair work, I cleaned up the cracked and chipped parts with a cotton swab and parts cleaner at the preparation stage, and I was able to confirm that the affected area was dirtier than I had imagined.

Also, when working on small areas, it is not good to work directly with your fingertips. Since instant adhesives have the property of reacting to slight moisture, I think everyone has had the experience of getting instant adhesive on their fingertips and having their fingers stick together. In fact, instant adhesives are also used for surgery. It is said that such powerful bonding occurs because the instant adhesive reacts to the moisture on the fingertips, which is sweat, and enters the grooves such as fingerprints via capillary action and solidifies. Indeed, it is not uncommon to be surprised by the strength of the bonding when fingertips stick together.

By correctly understanding the basics of work and the characteristics of instant adhesives, you will be able to provide effective prescriptions in times of need. Also, it is said that it is best to store instant adhesives that are in use in a sealed container such as a Tupperware in a refrigerator with low humidity so that the container does not fall over.

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